The Advantages of Being Miniscule Saturday, Nov 21 2009

First and foremost, you can fit three mini people in a single bed in a mini apartment on the mini island in Paris.  Yes, the three of us are comfortably enjoying our queen sized bed on Isle Saint Louis.  It has been such a joy to be here and to have Maddie stay with us.  I am so glad that she has been able to spend so much time showing us around and hanging out.  There has been so much to catch up on after not being around each other for 3 months! 

 

The second best reason it is advantageous to be miniscule is that you can dip, dive, dodge, duck, and dodge (great movie quote…I probably got it wrong but you get the point) the crowds in this busy city!  I have come terrifyingly close to being knocked into oncoming traffic, hit by cigarette butts, etc. but have been able to escape due to my short stature.  I like to think that for what physical height I lack, I make up for in personality.  Please feel free to comment about how much you agree. (I kid.)

 

Now, back to the important stuff!  I suppose we are still on day 1 at present.  Let me rack my brain to think that far.  My mom and I started off with a short walk off our island and over to the stunning Notre Dame Cathedral, one of the many meccas for Catholics.  I had heard stories about what a wonder it was but was still blown away with what I saw.  The architecture was stunning and the sheer size makes one wonder how people were able to construct such a monument so very long ago.  We ventured in and spent some quality time getting to know the cathedral before heading to the first crepe stand (ok…it was the second) we could find to pick up a crepe avec Nutella et banana and a crepe avec gruyere et champignons (cheese and mushrooms) and some hot red wine (DELISH!)   After devouring those in the park with the giant Notre Dame looming overhead, we walked around the Conciergerie, the flower market, and the rest of the Ile de la Cite.  A quick venture to the Franprix set us back a mere 20 Euro for enough wine and cheese to feed a starving nation, or at least two starving Americans.   We saw the Bastille, Place de Vosges, and enjoyed the Marais for a bit (including a few macaroons that were not all that good compared to some others I will get to!) and made our way back to Notre Dame for Vespers (evening prayers for all you non Catholics.) 

 

We were able to quickly meet up with your regular blogger after her classes for the day and spend the evening sipping beaujolais nouveau (the newly released red wines for the year,) champagne, and eating risotto, and good cheese.  We took an evening walk to Saint Michel fountain and contemplated our plan for the next day.  Little did we know what greatness was in store!

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(Another) American Girl in Paris Saturday, Nov 21 2009

Bonjour. Please allow me to introduce myself.  My name is Elise and I am commandeering little Miss Madeleine’s blog for my own selfish purposes for the next 12 days.  Please accept my apologies for not allowing the professional blogger to do her job.  The bottom line is that all of you loyal readers all know she has been less than timely with her latest posts and I think I will be able to alleviate this little trend during my short stay in Paris. 

 

I wish to welcome you all to all to my experience in the beautiful (and vibrant!) City of Lights!

 

The story begins about 9 months ago when little Mads decided to study abroad.  My mom and I, being the opportunists that we are, felt that this was le temps parfait pour visiter Paris!  (You all speak French right?  That says “the perfect time to visit Paris.”  That was also definitely my mom telling me how to write that because I have several stories to share about how good or not good my “spangliecnch” is.)  Fast forward  8 months and 28 days and our trip begins on a lovely (warm) November day in Dallas.  We jumped on a jet plane and hopped the pond over to Paris.  I wish I could say that the flight was a lovely one.  Don’t get me wrong.  It wasn’t horrible other than the screaming babies, jarring turbulence, and foreigners behind us kicking our chairs every 30 minutes like clockwork.  I exaggerate.  I actually slept for a good 6 hours while my mom was only able to sleep for about 1 due to the amateur soccer players residing one row posterior.  We made it to Charles de Gaulle safely, walked out on the tarmac, which was an experience in and of itself, and made our way through customs in about 30 seconds flat (I was under the impression that Customs actually checked passports—I was wrong.)  Once we had our bags in hand we were off on the whirlwind streets of outer Paris.  I was completely unaware of the death trap that cabs tend to be in this city.  Did you know that there are no “lanes” of traffic in Paris?  (My mom interjects:  There are such things as “lanes” in Paris, they are just more of a concept than a practiced reality.) Did you know that motorcycles will dart between large tour busses with no regard for their own safety?  More to come in a later post about our death defying tour round the Arc de Triumph. 

We arrived safely at our quaint apartment on Isle Saint Louis and were greeted by Thomas, a friendly young Parisian boy who showed us to our home for the next 12 days.  We were pleased to find the apartment everything we were hoping it would be.   Clean, quaint, spacious (big laugh there,) tastefully furnished, and most importantly, across from Berthillon which just happens to be the best ice cream in the city/country/continent/world/universe/etc.  We were so lucky to find an apartment on what we now lovingly refer to as “our island.”  It is much quieter than the surrounding city and has a friendly neighborhood vibe.  There are charming patisserie’s, boulangerie’s, market’s, and the best second hand jewelry story I have ever seen in my life (read Chanel skis and a 6.02 carat diamond that we covet….she said she would give me a deal if anyone is willing to finance my purchase.)  We have two windows overlooking our adorable street that we keep open to hear the bells from the church next door.  I highly recommend renting this apartment if you ever visit!  Just ask!   

 

Now that I have brought you through the first several hours of our trip, I am afraid I must stop.  I will write more soon!  With love from Paris,  E

Author’s warning: this story (and all stories that will be written here forth) has been (will be) slightly embellished….just a smidge….for your own benefit.

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The French Riviera and my Tour de Italy! Wednesday, Nov 4 2009

First, I must apologize to all of my loyal readers (my sister) for not blogging in so long. I have been traveling non-stop and doing lots of schoolwork. I still have yet to understand why my professors think I am actually here to learn. But, before I complain to much I should point out that my French class is very useful, my drawing class is wonderful, and my history classes make me feel much more knowledgeable about important issues (like court etiquette in 17th Century France).

I spent about half of October traveling, so I’ll try to briefly sum up everywhere I went. First, I went to the South of France for a long weekend with the whole SMU in Paris group. We started of in Marseille, which is not the most safe or luxurious of towns, but it has a long history and a lot of character. My favorite part was the cathedral at the top of a hill that was pink and white stripes and offered gorgeous views of the sea. We then headed to Giens where I was very excited to run along the beach, until I realized there was no beach. We stopped at Hyères on our way east and saw some cute little palm trees. All of these sights were very exciting for me, and then we stopped in Saint Tropez for lunch, which is probably the most adorable little town I have ever laid eyes on. From the port you can see snowcapped mountains, and the buildings are all painted in pastels. The beautiful yachts in the harbor made the place that much more appealing, and I had some delicious mussels and fries and a bottle of rosé wine with some good friends. Life just doesn’t get much better than that. Then we made our way to Nice, where I will be retiring to if I can’t afford Saint Tropez. Yes, the beach is rocky instead of sandy, but it is a beautiful little city. Last but not least, we stopped in Antibes – Juan-les-Pins, which was very exciting for me because it is where my grandmère grew up! To sum all of that up, the French Riviera is just as beautiful as I imagined, and I am insisting that all future family reunions take place there. Right family? Ok great!

After my trip to the Côte d’Azur, I made my way to Italy, land of the carbs! In 8 days I visited Milan, Venice, Florence, Pisa, Siena, and Rome. Amazingly, I saw everything that I desperately wanted to see in every city we went to. Granted, the friends I went with will probably hate me forever for dragging them out of bed at 7 ever morning, but c’est la vie! My diet consisted of pizza, pasta, gelato, and wine, and I do not feel one bit of shame about that. I even had tiramisu for breakfast one morning. On my list of must-sees were the Duomo in Milan, Saint Mark’s in Venice, the Duomo in Florence, the David, the Uffizi, the leaning tower, the Duomo in Siena, Vatican City, Saint Peter’s, the Sistine Chapel, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and the Roman Forum. We also trekked up 463 stairs to the top of the Duomo in Florence and watched the sun set. I can’t even put into words how breathtaking all of these places were, particularly all of the churches. Saint Mark’s in Venice was completely covered in gold mosaics, and the black and white stripped Duomo in Siena had more beautiful things inside than I could even process. Of course Saint Peter’s was amazingly gorgeous, and I still am in shock that I have actually been there.

All of this traveling has made me realize how incredibly lucky I am to have this opportunity. I mean, who goes to Italy for fall break? That’s right, no one. Sorry for cramming a few weeks worth of traveling into one post!

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Barcelona! Tuesday, Oct 13 2009

Barcelona: Land of Gaudi, tapas, and sangria. I must say that I realized how incredibly spoiled I am to be spending my time in Paris. At first glance, I was hugely disappointed in Barcelona. People told me it was gorgeous, so I built up the idea in my head. But truth be told, no city has more beautiful architecture than Paris – everywhere you look museums, apartment buildings, and café’s catch your eye. After the initial shock wore off, I discovered how beautiful Barcelona really is. First of all, the fact that it sits right on the Mediterranean could not have made me happier. Secondly, the weather was beautiful! I was hot for the first time since I left Dallas. Thirdly, the Sagrada Familia church, Guell Park and Guadi buildings are mesmerizing. I have never in my life seen anywhere like Barcelona.

I came to a strange realization in Spain this weekend: I have adapted to the Parisian way of life, and I didn’t even notice. First of all, I showed up for a weekend in Barcelona with jeans, leggings, tshirts, pashminas, and cardigans. Bad decision – in Spain it is appropriate to show your legs, mostly because it is so hot outside. On the metro in Paris, I try my best to blend in which means looking down and shutting up. In Barcelona, everyone was chatting and interacting! I was so confused! Barcelona is way more laid back than Paris, which is funny because I consider Paris to be much more laid back than anywhere in America. Barcelona made me realize how much Parisians follow rules of appropriateness, politeness, and tradition. I loved the relaxed atmosphere, the beach and the mountains, and of course all of the fascinating Gaudi architecture. I had a blast exploring Barcelona all weekend, but I was ready to come back to Paris on Sunday. Paris will forever have a piece of my heart. Where else can you sit and drink a cheap glass of wine at noon and people watch for hours on end? Where else can you walk down the street and see endless numbers of buildings that are older than anything in America? Where else can you spend all your time in museums and tourist hot spots and still not even make a dent in seeing everything? Where else can you get an 0,85 cent baguette and cheese from the outside market and call it lunch? That’s right people, nowhere.

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A week in my life Wednesday, Oct 7 2009

So much to do, so little time! As midterms approach and my consecutive weekends of traveling begin I am overwhelmed with the amount of things that I have to do. I am taking a short study break to tell you all about my recent adventures, and then I will go back to studying for my very first French test. I still think it is funny that I even have to take a French midterm – I mean, I am living in Paris. If I had not picked up any French by now, I would have died of starvation. I think I should be able to walk into class tomorrow and tell my French professor that I held a conversation with a stranger in the elevator this afternoon and gave someone directions on the Metro, and she should automatically give me an A+. One thing I have realized thus far, practical French is much different than French 101. C’est dommage!

My host sister Marianne had a friend in town from Spain this past week. We are all around the same age, so the three of us spent lots of time together eating and talking. I don’t think I have ever been as linguistically confused in my life as I was during these conversations. The combination of Spanish, French, and English (Sprenglish, if you will) had me so mixed up, I could not even tell what words were in which language. Like the ignorant American I am, I spoke the least languages out of the group. So the conversation was mostly English, scattered with Spanish and French. Listening for foreigners speak a language that is not their own made me realize the true value of immersion. But, after months of hearing broken English, I have come to the sad realization that my own English skills have been diminished by this trip. I am hoping this is a temporary side-effect, but please bear with me when I get back to America and sound as if I have zero linguistic skills. I am sure I will continue to use words that French people love to overuse when speaking English due to the French derivation, such as “oblige” and “content,” for which I apologize.

On a different note, this weekend was full of touristy-activities! On Friday, a few of us met at the catacombs only to find out that they are currently closed. This would have been extremely disappointing if it had not been for the delicious Greek sandwich place (a.k.a. KEBABS!) I found nearby. The line for Sainte Chapelle (the church with the beautiful stained glass close to Notre Dame and inside some very important government building) was enormous on Friday, so on Saturday morning we were first in line! The stained glass goes on forever and it is absolutely gorgeous. It is amazing that it is in such great condition considering it was built in the 13^th Century. We then took a quick tour around Notre Dame before heading to Père Lachaise, the famous cemetery on the East side of Paris. Far less eerie than any other cemetery I have been in, the graves are all above ground and most look more like miniature houses than graves. Then we trekked over to the Sacre Cœur in Montmartre, the newest of the churches I visited that day. Although disgustingly full of tourists, Montmartre is a charming little part of the city built on a hill that is full of trees (I can see it out of my window!).  

After exploring Paris all day Saturday, Nuit Blanche seemed like the perfect opportunity to explore Paris at night! It is a night that museums are supposed to be open all night, and the metro is supposed to run all night, but I found out the hard way that museums are only open until 2 AM and only certain metro lines are open all night. We started our night at Buttes Chaumont, which is a beautiful park on the right bank that was built for the World’s Fair. This park is highly unusual for Paris, because you can actually sit on the grass, and it is fully equipped with a manmade waterfall and mountain. They had all kinds of special art installations in the park, and it was very lively and fun. We left after an hour or two and headed to what was supposed to be the center of the action, near Chatelet. At this point we all decided to find a café and share a bottle of wine. Good friends and good conversation made the time fly by, and it wasn’t until a little mouse joined us that we decided it was time to go. We then walked along the Seine, which was beautiful of course, and discovered all of the museums had already closed. We ended the night on the Champs Elysees and waited for the first metro home in the morning. All in all, it was a lovely evening. I have now rambled on for far too long, but hopefully this makes up for my lack of installments this past week, sorry Mom! More pictures to come, if I ever stop doing schoolwork for long enough to upload them. I leave for Barcelona on Friday morning, so stay tuned!

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I love puppies! Tuesday, Sep 29 2009

In the middle of one of the most densely populated cities in the world, a certain irony baffles me – Parisians love nature. They try to be very environmentally friendly and they enjoy spending time in the city’s numerous parks and jardins (and God forbid that you sit on the grass in a park). The cats and dogs are not spayed, neutered, or declawed. I learned this the hard way when Cleo the cat decided to jump into my lap. You would think such nature-loving folk would generally treat animals with respect, but I have seen more enormous dogs (that look more like wolves) here than I ever expected. How you cram a dog that large into one of the miniature apartments here in Paris, I will never understand. These poor wolf-dogs have nowhere to run around in freedom! On the other side of the spectrum, the ankle-biter-sized dogs usually run around leashless on the streets of Paris, sometimes blocks behind their owners. Clearly, I am the only one confused by the situation, but I think it is a stray dog every single time! One last issue to address on the topic of dogs – why do the beggars on the street corners always have the most adorable and well-behaved puppies? If I weren’t so scared of being pick-pocketed, I would probably give them money every time.

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Shop ’til you drop! Saturday, Sep 26 2009

I did not quite understand the wonderment of shopping in Paris until today. After years of living in Dallas, I though we had all of the same ritzy brands and chic boutiques I could ever need. I was proven wrong. Galeries Lafayette by the Opera is the most beautiful shopping center I have ever seen. Seven floors of shopping heaven, plus with your passport you can save your receipts and get back what you paid in tax (something around 13%). It just doesn’t get much better than that. I also highly recommend the sushi restaurant on the 6th floor. After an exhausting afternoon of shopping, Alexia and I lazily took the metro to Madeleine (which probably took longer than it would have to walk) and stood in line for Ladurée. We got hot chocolate (which was more like a melted chocolate bar), chocolate macaroons, and of course chocolate éclairs, all of which were the best of their kind that I have ever tasted. There will definitely be more trips to the famed Ladurée in the future. We then stood in line to get into Repetto, the creator of the original ballet flat, only to find that it is nearly impossible to find the size and color you want. At Repetto, you take whatever they have in your size and you love it. This adorable store will make you wish you were a ballerina, especially when you see little girls trying on tutus and picking out their first pair of pointe shoes. We then squeezed into the most crowded metro I have ever witnessed, made our way to Fountain Saint Michele, and picked up a few pashminas for close to nothing. All in all, I would call it a fabulous day of dining and shopping in Paris. It is one of those days that makes me wonder how I will ever get used to Dallas again!

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It’s a Small World After All! Friday, Sep 25 2009

Today, I made the trek to Disneyland Paris! My only other Disney experience was in Florida when I was around 5 years old. So needless to say, I could barely contain my excitement. I have never felt more like a 5 year old in my adult life, and let me tell you, it was absolutely wonderful. I must first thank the SMU in Paris program for not scheduling Friday classes for us. The lines were not bad at all, and the weather was perfect. We rode Space Mountain, Indiana Jones, Pirates of the Caribbean (where we got stuck in the middle of the ride for about 15 minutes), the Haunted Mansion, Runaway Mountain, the Teacup ride, Buzz Lightyear, Space Tour, and It’s a Small World. And don’t worry, we caught some of the parade too! If I could live at Disneyland, I probably would. I expect to make a few more Disneyland Paris trips before I head back to the States. All in all, it was a perfect Disney day. I did however make the mistake of wearing Nike shorts, so I screamed “American Tourist” and every single Disney employee immediately started speaking English to me. It also made for two very awkward Metro rides to Disneyland and back. You can always tell when people stare at you in an “I love your outfit” way. That is not what I received today. The French (A) do not show their bare legs – tights or pants only, and (B) they do not wear workout clothes, even when they workout. Thank goodness I opted for a plain white shirt instead of my favorite grey t-shirt with a Texas flag on the back. I probably would have gotten laughed off of the Metro. I have learned my lesson.

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The Man Bag. Friday, Sep 25 2009

It’s a purse. It’s a briefcase. No, it’s a MURSE! Dear Parisian men, Please explain to me the functionality of a man bag. What do you keep in there? It seems to me that you could easily fit your cash, your credit cards, and your NaviGo pass in one pocket, and your cell phone in the other. I just got home from watching the Eiffel Tower light show (three times) via the metro at 12:30 PM, and witnessed two men standing side by side both wearing murses. During the daytime hours, I give men the benefit of the doubt, because I know I could not fit everything I need for the day in two pockets. Also, I take into consideration whether or not the bag the man is carrying is just his girlfriend’s purse (Parisian men are not ashamed to carry their girlfriends’ purses). However, at midnight, I highly doubt you need an entire man purse for all of your belongings. This could have something to do with their tendency to wear hot pink accessories, have long hair, and refusing to lift weights, but overall I do not see the purpose of a man bag. Yours Truly, Maddie

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Deer in headlights Thursday, Sep 24 2009

I have seen my life flash before my eyes quite a few times since I arrived in Paris. Maybe it’s the Texan in me, but I cannot cross a street without running the risk of getting hit by a car. Either I am a horrible city-dweller, or Parisians are terrible drivers. For my ego’s sake I will assume it is the latter. Much like in America, they have little green and red light-up people to indicate when it is safe to cross the street. So naturally, one would assume that green means go, right? Wrong. Car means go. And as a car, if there is an obstacle in your way, you simply scare the living daylights out of it and then lay on your horn. Just to complicate the situation even more, cars can drive and park on the sidewalks here. So a peaceful stroll down Boulevard Port Royal turns into a car hopping the curb and cutting me off and then parking right in the middle of the sidewalk thereby forcing me to shimmy around the side of the car. Dear Paris, just because bikes and motorcycles can be on both the street and the sidewalk doesn’t mean cars can do the same, even if your car is the size of a normal car’ trunk. I can’t quite get a read on Parisians yet. Sometimes they are in a huge hurry, like anytime they are in a car or on a bike or motorcycle. Other times, they sit in cafes and talk and drink for hours. Make up your mind Paris!

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